This is definitely my favorite block so far.
Here are the particulars:
- RULER: 12/13″ arc
- LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: 101, Beginner Ruler Quilting, some experience Free Motion Quilting (FMQ)
- cross-hatch butterfly, square
- 3 peaks, border
- cross-hatch orbit star, corner
- sunrise, corner
It is made using the same Arc ruler(s) as Block #3, so I will not review the rulers this time around. Simply go to that post if you want to read the review.
Step 1: Make basic markings on your quilt sandwich
- Mark your 18″ square, lines A1, A2, A3 and A4. (same as all previous Blocks)
- Mark the 4 lines that are 3″ in from the seam allowance, lines B1, B2, B3 and B4. (same as all previous Blocks)
- Draw a line from corner to corner in the center square (C1-2). This line will not be stitched so make sure you use a marker where the lines can be removed.
- Mark the center of your quilt sandwich (D)
- Find and mark the center of each B line (E 1-4)
- At each BB corner, make marks 1 1/2″ and 3″ down along the C line.
Step 2: Stitch all your B lines.
Step 3: Starting at the center (D), stitch along the arc of your quilting ruler to one BB corner, back to the center, up to the opposite BB corner and back to center. Do the same for the other two butterfly wings, and then repeat for all the F markings (see stitching diagram).
*Remember to use your small ruler to determine the placement of your quilting ruler for the corners and center.
**Also, if you are using the Westalee ruler, you will need to use the same technique as we did in Block 3 since your ruler is not long enough to reach from the corner to the center of the block. That is, to stitch part way along the arc and then re position the ruler at the desired destination.
Step 4: To complete the cross-hatch sections, line up the 1/4″ reference line on your quilting ruler along the outside of the butterfly wings. Use it as a guide to follow the parallel lines between the B line and the Butterfly wing. Travel the short distances needed at both ends (see diagram). Repeat for all four sections.
Step 5: Each of the 3 peaks will start and end at an AB point in the border section. We will stitch the center peak first so that we can use reference points on the quilting ruler for the other two peaks.
Starting where the seam allowance (A) meets the boarder line (B), follow the curve of your ruler to stitch to the E1 mark you made earlier (use your small ruler for accuracy). Then stitch down to other AB line. Repeat for the other two peaks. Start and end at the same point, but stitch 1/2″ to either side of the first peak (use the 1/4″ reference line on the quilting ruler).
*This is where a ruler that has both an inside and outside curve will come in handy. You will be able to stitch all three lines starting and stopping at the same spot by using the reference lines on both the inside and outside curves.
Step 6: In Block #3 we stitched orbit stars in two of the corners. This time we will make the same orbit star and simply add cross-hatching. Once again, use the 1/4″ reference line on the quilting ruler as your guide. Repeat for the opposite corner.
Step 7: Follow the diagram to make the sunrise corners stitching from the outside corner (AA) to the inside corner (BB).
*I always start with the middle longest line and work out. It reduces the amount of shifting and puckering that occurs. You could also baste the 3 layers together just outside the A lines.
I hope the wait was worth it. Have a great week!